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INTER PARFUMS INC (IPAR)·Q4 2023 Earnings Summary

Executive Summary

  • Q4 net sales rose 6% YoY to $328.7M with gross margin up 30 bps to 64.7%, but heavy fourth‑quarter A&P spend drove operating margin down to 5.7% and diluted EPS to $0.32 (‑37% YoY) .
  • Management reaffirmed FY2024 guidance: revenue $1.45B and EPS $5.15, noting ~flat gross margin assumptions and ~21% A&P target; Lacoste amortization expected to trim 2024 EPS by ~$0.11 .
  • Strategic catalysts: shipments of Lacoste (Jan) and Roberto Cavalli (Feb) began; combined 2024 contribution modeled at ~$90M with upside if Middle East remains stable; dividend raised 20% to $3.00 and 2024 buyback authorization up to 130k shares .
  • Management emphasized premiumization, strong holiday sell‑through and early 2024 restocking as positives; caution persists on geopolitics (Middle East/Eastern Europe) and inventory normalization dynamics, but tone was confident on execution and market demand .

What Went Well and What Went Wrong

What Went Well

  • Premiumization and brand momentum: “each of our three largest brands generated sales in excess of $200 million” in 2023; Jimmy Choo +19%, Montblanc +15%, Coach +25%; GUESS +23% .
  • Healthy holiday sell‑through supported restocking: aggressive Q4 A&P “drove sell‑through for our retail partners, enabling 2024 first half restocking orders” .
  • Geographic breadth and balance sheet: all major regions grew in 2023 (North America +22%, Europe +21%, Asia +17%); year‑end cash and ST investments ~$183M; working capital $514M; W/C ratio 2.6x .

What Went Wrong

  • Profitability compression in Q4: operating income fell 19% YoY and EPS declined 37% YoY on heavy A&P (33% of Q4 sales vs 28% LY) and seasonality; operating margin 5.7% vs 7.5% LY .
  • Inventory and working capital intensity: inventory days rose to 249 vs 231; management expects normalization as new licenses begin to ship .
  • Macro/geopolitical visibility: ~8% of sales Middle East exposure and ~$50M Russia exposure cited; management remains conservative on 2024 outlook pending clarity .

Financial Results

Headline P&L vs prior periods and estimates (USD millions, except per-share and %)

MetricQ4 2022Q3 2023Q4 2023Vs PY (Q4)Vs Est.
Net Sales ($M)$310.8 $368.0 $328.7 +6% N/A (SPGI consensus unavailable)
Gross Margin %64.4% 63.9% 64.7% +30 bps N/A
Operating Income ($M)$23.2 $87.2 $18.9 (19%) N/A
Operating Margin %7.5% 23.7% 5.7% (170 bps) N/A
Net Income attrib. to IP ($M)$16.6 $53.2 $10.4 (37%) N/A
Diluted EPS ($)$0.52 $1.66 $0.32 (37%) N/A

Note: We attempted to retrieve S&P Global consensus estimates but access was unavailable at this time; therefore, estimate comparisons are not shown.

Segment/Operating view and selected mix indicators

KPIQ4 2022Q4 2023
U.S.-based operations sales growth YoYN/A+13%
European-based operations sales growth YoYN/A+2%
A&P as % of Q4 net sales28% 33%

Balance sheet and cash flow KPIs

KPI2022 YE2023 YE
Cash + Short-term investments ($M)$255.5 ($104.7 cash + $150.8 ST inv.) ~$183.0
Working capital ($M)N/A$514.0
Working capital ratioN/A2.6x
DSO (days)64 60
Inventory days231 249
Long-term debt (gross, YE) ($M)$151.5 $127.9

Guidance Changes

MetricPeriodPrevious GuidanceCurrent GuidanceChange
Net SalesFY2024$1.45B (previously issued; reaffirmed) $1.45B Maintained
Diluted EPSFY2024$5.15 (previously issued; reaffirmed) $5.15 Maintained
EPS impact (Lacoste amortization)FY2024~($0.11) ~($0.11) Maintained
Gross MarginFY2024~Flat vs 2023 (qualitative) ~Flat vs 2023 Maintained
A&P as % of salesFY2024~21% target ~21% target Maintained
Growth cadenceFY20241H high-single-digit; 2H double-digit 1H high-single-digit; 2H double-digit Maintained
Dividend (annualized)2024$2.50 $3.00; next quarterly $0.75 on Mar 29, 2024 Raised 20%
Share Repurchase20242023: 116,860 shares bought, $15.4M Authorized up to 130,000 shares in 2024 Continued program

Earnings Call Themes & Trends

TopicQ2 2023 (prior‑2)Q3 2023 (prior‑1)Q4 2023 (current)Trend
Premiumization/brand momentumPositive momentum; supply chain/inflation mostly behind; market share gains Record sales; strong extensions; Amazon premium beauty +149% YTD through Oct Ongoing momentum; high‑concentration, higher ticket formats seeing demand Strengthening
ChinaCautious; modest contribution expected Sell‑out improving; inventories managed down; modest growth Small portion of business; long‑term opportunity, but limited current impact Gradual improvement, conservative posture
Travel retailSigns of renewed life Up to ~7–8% mix; improving traffic “Really back” ex‑China; strong programs globally Improving
PricingNot detailed~5% taken in 2023; no further near‑term pricing planned Aim for flat GM in 2024 with carryover pricing offsetting costs Stable
A&P investmentHeavy 4Q; 21% full‑year target Heavy 4Q; reiterate ~21% full‑year target 4Q at 33% of sales; targeting ~21% in 2024 Elevated, converging to ~21%
New licenses (Lacoste, Cavalli)Strategy build‑out; 2024 start Launch in 2024; no old inventory bought Shipping begun; ~$90M 2024 modeled; potential upside Ramping
GeopoliticsN/APrudence given Middle East conflict Maintain conservative stance; review guidance as visibility improves Persistent caution

Management Commentary

  • “For the first time ever, each of our three largest brands generated sales in excess of $200 million… Jimmy Choo… Montblanc… Coach…” — Jean Madar, CEO .
  • “We achieved our 2023 bottom line goal of $4.75 per diluted share… Excluding [a] $3.1 million tax assessment, we would have delivered $4.82…” — Michel Atwood, CFO .
  • “We are reaffirming our 2024 guidance, which calls for net sales of $1.45 billion… earnings per diluted share of $5.15… [with] Lacoste non‑cash amortization… reduce… by ~$0.11.” — CFO .
  • “Consolidated net sales grew 6% in the final quarter, reflecting 13% and 2% growth in our U.S.-based and European-based operations respectively.” — CFO .
  • “We see no price resistance… more consumers… buy larger size… More than 50% of the sales are in the large size.” — CEO (Q&A) .

Q&A Highlights

  • Exposure and prudence: ~8% of sales in Middle East; Russia revenue about $50M; conservative guide reflects macro risk, not brand health .
  • 2024 margin framework: Expect ~flat gross margin; converge A&P toward ~21% of sales; U.S. business increasingly resembles Europe (higher GM and higher A&P) .
  • New licenses trajectory: Company modeling ~$90M combined Lacoste+Cavalli in 2024; upside possible given early demand and prior licensee under‑stocking .
  • Cash flow/dividend: Inventory build for new licenses largely in place; expect better FCF conversion, supporting 20% dividend hike to $3.00 .
  • Seasonality: Expect 1H growth high‑single‑digit and 2H double‑digit given innovation calendar and new license sell‑in .

Estimates Context

  • We attempted to retrieve S&P Global consensus (EPS and revenue) for Q4 2023; access was unavailable at this time, so estimate comparisons are not shown. As a result, “vs estimates” cells are marked N/A. We note management met full‑year EPS target ($4.75) and reaffirmed FY2024 guidance .

Key Takeaways for Investors

  • Quality of growth remains strong amid premiumization; 2023 saw record sales and three $200M+ brands, setting a high base for 2024 .
  • Q4 was deliberately investment‑heavy (A&P 33% of sales) to drive sell‑through and 1H24 restocking; sequential margin compression appears tactical, not structural .
  • FY2024 guide looks prudently achievable (revenue $1.45B, EPS $5.15) with ~flat GM and A&P ~21%; upside skew from Lacoste/Cavalli if geopolitics stay calm .
  • Balance sheet resilience (cash/ST investments ~$183M; W/C 2.6x) and a 20% dividend hike signal confidence; management also extended buybacks .
  • Watch geopolitical headlines; Middle East (8% sales) and Russia ($50M) exposures introduce event risk, which management has already embedded in cautious stance .
  • Near‑term trading catalyst: confirmation of early sell‑in/offtake for Lacoste and Cavalli and any upward revision to FY2024 guide as visibility improves .
  • Medium‑term thesis: compounding via brand extensions, premiumization, and direct distribution mix shift (supports GM), balanced by structurally higher A&P to sustain share gains .

Appendix: Additional Data Tables

Full-year performance (for context)

MetricFY 2022FY 2023YoY
Net Sales ($M)$1,086.7 $1,317.7 +21%
Gross Margin %63.9% 63.7% (20 bps)
Operating Income ($M)$194.3 $251.4 +29%
Operating Margin %17.9% 19.1% +120 bps
Diluted EPS ($)$3.78 $4.75 (reported); $4.82 ex one‑time tax +26% (reported)

Shareholder returns actions

ActionDetail
DividendRaised 20% to $3.00 annual; next $0.75 on Mar 29, 2024
BuybackRepurchased 116,860 shares ($15.4M) in 2023; authorized up to 130,000 shares in 2024